Ramon Bilbao Limited [Tempranillo]
This is an interesting entry, as I’ve had the wines of this
label over the course of a few different years, so perhaps this could be
several reviews in one. I don’t generally note the years, but here, it may be
bear noting as they are not always very similar. It is indeed different every
time, but never in the least unpleasant and usually one of my better pick-ups.
Due to the smaller quantities involved, it is frequently not available, so when
I see it, usually I’ll grab a bottle or more.
It is no small task to vary your small batch wine from year
to year and still come up with outstanding results, so a huge tip of the hat to
these guys for doing it. This is also fermented in oak barrels, rather than
vats, then matured in oak, then after that in bottles before being released, so
this is not, in any way, any sort of production wine. That it falls on this
list at all is something of a marvel to me, actually.
The wines of this line tend to be on the darker side, a
trait I admire immensely. The years I’ve had this have been rich and lush and
generally fruity, though with a good solid amount of tannin that is assertive
initially but smooths out rather quickly. This one could pass the vaunted
Marissa Ross test, for instance. It naturally does better with air and can bit
a touch pungent out of the gate, though not overbearingly so. There are indeed
some universals and those traits, along with the Tempranillo grape, are generally
common amidst the various varietal years.
The flavor profile, though, tends to be notably different. 2013,
for example, was very full and very rich, lush, delightful, tasty and quite
pleasing and satisfying to the palate. It is noted as intended to “go with
anything”, which I think it probably would. We never use wine to accompany
food, but it was a great chill out and relax drink, an exceptional “sipping
companion”, as it were. The 2011, on the other hand, was considerably more
complex, with several notes happening all at once. The 2013 was far smoother,
with perhaps hints of other flavors, but with precious little of the earlier
busyness, what you would call more “straight ahead.” Both of them were
wonderful and I’d be well happy to have a bottle of either.
As you may have surmised from where this is going, this is
definitely a Standard. If I see it, I get it, SPA or not be damned and I
definitely encourage you to do the same. Truly one of the greats.
